Date: Fri, 18 Mar 1994 09:54:08 -1000 From: andrew@tug.com (Andrew Beattie) Message-Id: Organization: /usr/lib/news/organisation Subject: Re: Flying Bar In article <2mcj9l$4e9@beta.qmw.ac.uk> andrewh@qmw.ac.uk writes: >I think I will try the bar. What do I need for a flying bar ? Just a >broomstick with two holes drilled near the end and larkshead the flying >lines on? Should do, or you could buy one. Think about the failure modes - I wouldn't want it to snap on me. Consider fibreglass which is more inclined to bend than break. >guess that the danger is that it is impossible to let go of >one line to power down the foils in an emergency Hmmm.... thinking about this, consider the following idea: 10' Flexies, 6' bar (for example) Tie 3' of heavy line to each end of the bar and attach the flying lines to the 3' lines. Tie another piece of rope round your waist and run it loosely to the end of *one* of the 3' lines. If you release the bar, the rope round your waist will pull only the one side, making the flexi collapse and fall to the ground.....well, that's the theory, anyway - try it at your own risk. Andrew -- andrew@tug.com Phone: +44 256 464 912 Fax: +44 793 614 297 Snail: PO Box 109, Basingstoke, RG22 4SW, UK Growing old is mandatory. Growing up is optional. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Mon, 21 Mar 1994 10:56:12 -1000 From: andrew@tug.com (Andrew Beattie) Message-Id: Organization: /usr/lib/news/organisation Subject: Re: Flying Bar pwmeek@garnet.msen.com (Peter W. Meek) writes: >Like you, I can't stiff-arm one of the lines behind me >when the kite is pulling hard. Yep. With a hard pulling kite, it is easy to stand with one arm fully extended and pull the other arm back to the centre of your chest, but it is difficult to pull it any further. Often, with the 15m Peel, this hand-by-the-chest position was only just enough to hold it in a tip stand(!), but not enough to bring it up, into the sky. Turning the kite skywards *required* the scarecrow position. I achieved it by taking a couple of steps towards the kite, moving my hand from my chest to fully extended away >From the kite as the pressure released. On the buggy, I often hook the line round my elbow to pull one line back further than I can reach. I have been intending to add padding to the line, or perhaps to replace it with a length of webbing, to help make this practice more comfortable. > >For the connections I used 3/16" (#10) U-bolts >[...and] double-ended dog-chain snaps All that hardware? I would have made a single hole, passed the loop on end of the line through the hole and then hooked the loop overn the end of the bar. Andrew -- andrew@tug.com Home phone: +44 256 464 912 Work fax: +44 793 614 297 Snail mail: PO Box 109, Basingstoke, RG22 4SW, UK Please note: I occassionally suffer from endobuccoglossia. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Tue, 22 Mar 1994 06:38:14 -1000 From: pwmeek@garnet.msen.com (Peter W. Meek) Message-Id: <2mn6tn$7cf@nigel.msen.com> Organization: Msen, Inc. -- Ann Arbor, MI (account info: +1 313 998-4562) Subject: Re: Flying Bar Andrew Beattie (andrew@tug.com) wrote: : > : >For the connections I used 3/16" (#10) U-bolts : >[...and] double-ended dog-chain snaps : All that hardware? I would have made a single hole, passed the loop on end : of the line through the hole and then hooked the loop overn the end of the bar. That should work fine. You will need to figure a way to smooth and finish the bore of the hole so the sleeving will pass easily through the hole. Otherwise the hole would need to be too big. Maybe a split dowel with sandpaper wrapped around it and spun with a drill. And a coat of hard wax to fill the grain. -- --Pete Time flies like an arrow; time durations like a stopwatch. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Thu, 24 Mar 1994 09:52:26 -1000 From: sritter@umi.com (Sam Ritter x3111) Message-Id: <2msr1q$per@news.umi.com> Organization: University Microfilms Inc. Subject: Re: Flying Bar In article <2mn6tn$7cf@nigel.msen.com> pwmeek@garnet.msen.com (Peter W. Meek) writes: >Andrew Beattie (andrew@tug.com) wrote: > >: > >: >For the connections I used 3/16" (#10) U-bolts >: >[...and] double-ended dog-chain snaps >: All that hardware? I would have made a single hole, passed the loop on end >: of the line through the hole and then hooked the loop overn the end of the bar. > >That should work fine. You will need to figure a way to smooth and finish >the bore of the hole so the sleeving will pass easily through the hole. >Otherwise the hole would need to be too big. Maybe a split dowel with >sandpaper wrapped around it and spun with a drill. And a coat of hard >wax to fill the grain. You don't need to go through all that trouble! When I fly my 2-kite routine, I am essentially using what is a flying bar in each hand. I have two 1 inch diam dowels of appropriate length with 1 hole on each end that has a loop of 500 lb line attached. The fly lines are attached to the knots on each loop. The only thing that I did to the holes is to quicly file away any splinters as the result of drilling. The loops were attached so that they wouldn't slip around or fall off the dowels. The loops are still holding strong after many hours of use, including flying in some fairly high winds( 15-20 mph ). Before anybody says anything, the 500lb line may be a bit overdoing it, but I build things so they won't break with all the strain that I put my handles through.( hardware breaks!! unless it's too heavy for the job ) def appropriate length: length that feels good to you for the task. I started with 18 in dowels. I am planning on using 24 inch for more control. Stay away from that hardware as much as possible Good winds Sam sritter@umi.com = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =