Date: Tue, 3 May 1994 04:55:10 -1000 From: higham_t@lincoln.gpsemi.com Message-Id: Organization: GPS Lincoln Subject: Building a Standard 200 Has anyone made a Standard 200 from "Stunt Kites to Build and Fly" without using the "T" Connector recomended in the book. If so what did you use for the "T" piece. It has been suggested to me that I could either: 1. Use two pieces of pvc tube bonded together to form a "T", or 2. Use a brass ferrule, pushed through a pvc tube at right angles. Has anyone got any comments as to whether either of these solutions would be suitable? Thanks Tim Higham = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Tue, 3 May 1994 10:45:27 -1000 From: brian@nds.com (Brian Dockter) Message-Id: <94May3.134541pdt.8074@rainier.nds.com> Organization: Division of Applied Sciences, Harvard University Subject: Re: Building a Standard 200 On May 3, 7:55am, higham_t@lincoln.gpsemi.com wrote: > Subject: Building a Standard 200 > Has anyone made a Standard 200 from "Stunt Kites to Build and Fly" > without using the "T" Connector recomended in the book. If so what > did you use for the "T" piece. > > It has been suggested to me that I could either: > > 1. Use two pieces of pvc tube bonded together to form a "T", or > 2. Use a brass ferrule, pushed through a pvc tube at right angles. > > Has anyone got any comments as to whether either of these solutions > would be suitable? I would suggest a method similar to #2. I have used it on a few kites, and seen it on some production kites (some of which are similar in design to the Standard 200). Instead of using PVC tubing, vinyl tubing is used (sometimes reinforced vinyl tubing). It seems to work well on all of the kites I have used/seen it on. You may want to take some steps to make sure that the ferrule does not slide in the tubing. Brian -- Brian Dockter | Northwest Digital Systems UUCP: uunet!nds!brian | Voice: 206-524-0014 Internet: brian@nds.com | FAX: 206-524-3440 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 02:52:27 -1000 From: bp2@mrc-lmb.cam.ac.uk (Brian Pashley) Message-Id: Organization: University of Cambridge, England Subject: Re: Building a Standard 200 In article , higham_t@lincoln.gpsemi.com wrote: > Has anyone made a Standard 200 from "Stunt Kites to Build and Fly" > without using the "T" Connector recomended in the book. If so what > did you use for the "T" piece. > > It has been suggested to me that I could either: > > 1. Use two pieces of pvc tube bonded together to form a "T", or > 2. Use a brass ferrule, pushed through a pvc tube at right angles. > > Has anyone got any comments as to whether either of these solutions > would be suitable? > I've made several Standard 200's using method 2. They have all been very successful = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Wed, 4 May 1994 06:59:00 -1000 From: deannem@CS.WNMU.EDU (DeAnne Miller) Message-Id: <9405050559.AA04298@CS.WNMU.EDU> Organization: Division of Applied Sciences, Harvard University Subject: re:Building a Standard 200 In article , higham_t@lincoln.gpsemi.com wrote: > Has anyone made a Standard 200 from "Stunt Kites to Build and Fly" > without using the "T" Connector recomended in the book. If so what > did you use for the "T" piece. In my local hardware store I found a PVC 3/8" OD Tee for small water lines in trailers. The inside diameter is perfect for AFC 2400 shafts. I have broken a few in heavy crashes but at $0.39 each it was no great loss. I have also drilled out the tee to make a cross for kites with a longer center tail section. Taking a hint from TOTL harware I put a short piece of 6mm windshield washer hose on each side of the tee so that it helps hold the cross spars in the tee when doing tricks that stress the frame (i.e. crashing.) Rick Miller = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =