Date: Thu, 29 Sep 1994 01:35:01 -1000 From: hayden1009@aol.com (Hayden1009) Message-Id: <36e8p5$6je@newsbf01.news.aol.com> Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Subject: 4 vs 6 legged bridle for Roks I am building my first large 7-8' fighting rokkaku and would like to know the merits of a 4 vs. 6 legged bridle. It seems to me that the 6 would more evenly distribute the pressure/pull on the spars, on the other hand more legs would make for more tangling possiblities in a battle. Is 6 more stable? If a 6 legged bridle is preferred, are all 3 bottom or top legs the same length or would the center legs be slightly shorter? Thanks, Alice Hayden = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Thu, 29 Sep 1994 05:26:29 -1000 From: sasaki@das.harvard.edu (Marty Sasaki) Message-Id: Organization: Harvard University OIT/NSD Subject: Re: 4 vs 6 legged bridle for Roks In article <36e8p5$6je@newsbf01.news.aol.com>, hayden1009@aol.com (Hayden1009) writes: >I am building my first large 7-8' fighting rokkaku and would like to know >the merits of a 4 vs. 6 legged bridle. It seems to me that the 6 would >more evenly distribute the pressure/pull on the spars, on the other hand >more legs would make for more tangling possiblities in a battle. Is 6 >more stable? Alice, by rokkaku standards, 8 feet isn't really large... As far as the number of bridle legs go, I guess it depends on the stiffness of the spars. 4 legs is certainly adequate for this size of kite unless you go to really light spars. I've had my K75 framed rokkaku, 7 foot tall, fly in winds of up to 15 mph without undue strain on the frame... >If a 6 legged bridle is preferred, are all 3 bottom or top legs the same >length or would the center legs be slightly shorter? I would use three top lets (the center one slightly shorter), two bottom legs, and one on the spine between the two cross spars. -- Marty Sasaki Harvard University Sasaki Kite Fabrications sasaki@noc.harvard.edu Network Services Division 26 Green Street 617-496-4320 10 Ware Street Jamaica Plain, MA 02130 Cambridge, MA 02138-4002 phone/fax: 617-522-8546 = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Thu, 29 Sep 1994 15:23:05 -1000 From: hayden1009@aol.com (Hayden1009) Message-Id: <36fp9p$irm@newsbf01.news.aol.com> Organization: America Online, Inc. (1-800-827-6364) Subject: Re: 4 vs 6 legged bridle for Roks In article <1119@leadingedg.win.net>, mgraves@leadingedg.win.net (Michael Graves) writes: >a simple way to do a 4 legged bridle. Michael, thanks for the support. Now, what is the simple way to do the 6 and 7 (I must admit that this one sounds formidable) legged bridles? :-o Thanks, Alice. = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Thu, 29 Sep 1994 12:44:09 -1000 From: mgraves@leadingedg.win.net (Michael Graves) Message-Id: <1119@leadingedg.win.net> Subject: Re: 4 vs 6 legged bridle for Roks BTW - here is agreat method for setting up rokakku bridles, as told to me by Eric Curtis, originally from Oscar Bailly. Presume - 4 leg bridle with each leg meeting the frame half way along each half span. 1. Use a length of line about twice the hieght of the kite, connect each end to the tie-in points on the upper spreader. With the kite face up on the ground, pull the loop of line tight along the spine, and tie it off where the lower spreader meets the spine. This should for a loop from points A to B, and through C on my meager ascii artwork. F /^\ / | \ / | \ / | \ |---A-------B---| | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |---D---C---E---| \ | / \ | / \ | / \ / 2. Repeat the same procedure for the lower bridle legs, except pulling the loop of line tightly towards the nose of the kite. Tie it off at the very tip of the nose. This should for a loop from points D to E, and through F. 3. Trim away the excess loops of line and join the two pairs of legs with about 18" of line. Larks head a loop at the mid-point of the connecting line and you have a flyable kite... ...works every time, though needs a bit lower tow point for fighting. Michael Graves = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Thu, 29 Sep 1994 12:25:16 -1000 From: mgraves@leadingedg.win.net (Michael Graves) Message-Id: <1118@leadingedg.win.net> Subject: Re: 4 vs 6 legged bridle for Roks In article <36e8p5$6je@newsbf01.news.aol.com>, Hayden1009 (hayden1009@aol.com) writes: >I am building my first large 7-8' fighting rokkaku and would like to know >the merits of a 4 vs. 6 legged bridle. It seems to me that the 6 would >more evenly distribute the pressure/pull on the spars, on the other hand >more legs would make for more tangling possiblities in a battle. Is 6 >more stable? Not necessarily any more stable, just distributes load better, allowing you to use a slightly lighter frame for a light wind advantage. With a 6 leg bridle you can drop you choice of spars by one size based on Kevin Shannon's chart of suggested spars. >If a 6 legged bridle is preferred, are all 3 bottom or top legs the same >length or would the center legs be slightly shorter? The center lines are shorter by an amount that takes into account the amount of bow in the spreaders. The really painful part about 6 leg bridles is that changing the bow of the spreaders requires that you also retune the center bridle legs. It gets even worse if you opt for a 7 leg bridle, where the mid point of the spine is also independently supported. In this case every time the angle of attack is adjusted the extra line to the spine must be tweaked. Michael Graves = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = Date: Fri, 30 Sep 1994 05:01:49 -1000 From: mgraves@leadingedg.win.net (Michael Graves) Message-Id: <1127@leadingedg.win.net> Subject: Re: 4 vs 6 legged bridle for Roks In article <36fp9p$irm@newsbf01.news.aol.com>, Hayden1009 (hayden1009@aol.com) writes: >Michael, thanks for the support. Now, what is the simple way to do the 6 >and 7 (I must admit that this one sounds formidable) legged bridles? On the few occasions that I've had to make 6 & 7 leg bridles I started with a good basic 4 leg arrangement, as described in my previous post. I then add the center lines to each spreader, using a larks head/overhand combination to add them into the gang where the the three lines meet. This allows me to adjust the center lines, and keeps the adjustable points clustered near the tow point. For the extra line on the spine I just used the larks head/overhand to tie it to the loop that I use as a tow point. In theory you could tie a loop in the free end of that line, and use a hitch to connect it to the line joining the two gangs. This would eliminate the adjustment of the center line, and you would then adjust angle of attack by sliding the hitch. I say "in theory" because I have yet to try it myself. I prefer the 4 leg bridle for its simplicity. Good luck! Michael Graves = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =